I was cleaning out my computer a few weekends ago and came across a bunch of photos from a long trip to Europe that Ted and I took the summer we graduated from grad school. We did the typical “Euro” trip and blew all of our money on some very well made memories. It was worth it and I wanted to write a few posts on the places we explored. The first stop is Paris.

Have you ever heard of the phrase, if you don’t design your life someone else will? It’s a philosophy I try to live my life by, and during our trip to Paris I gained an appreciation for the French love of design and detail.  From the city’s carefully mapped out monuments and boulevards to the hand carved flower motifs that grace the gilded surfaces of Versailles. Paris is a tribute to what design and planning can do.

The City

Because we were grad students on a budget, Ted and I explored Paris on foot. We walked the entire city, which helped me appreciate how well designed the city is. Paris is characterized by expansive boulevards, buildings uniform in style and height, and throughout the city, you’ll see sweeping views of monuments like the Eiffel tower, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Lourve. If you think this is a happy accident, you’re wrong. In the 19^th century, Paris underwent a huge renovation by order of Napoleon himself.  He appointed a man named Georges-Eugène Haussmann to bring air and light to the city, to make it beautiful. Haussmann is responsible for designing the Paris we know today.

To achieve this, Haussmann demolished crumbling medieval neighborhoods, introduced parks and avenues, founded health public health projects, and established a strict building style to bring a sense of harmony to the city. Haussmann was heavily criticized for his methods since they often involved displacing families and shop owners who had inhabited their neighborhoods for generations. Nevertheless, Haussmann’s urban development worked since Paris today is known as one of the world’s most beautiful cities.

The Catacombs

Even the tunnels under the streets of Paris are designed and filled with a strange tribute to the dead: the catacombs. This was one of the creepiest parts of our trip. It’s the stuff of nightmares, but if you have morbid and spooky side – the catacombs are a must see. So what are the catacombs? They are an underground ossuary that houses the bones of over six million people. Yup. It’s creepy.

In the late 18^th century the cemeteries of Paris were overcrowded – to the point where buildings and streets were caving in under the weight of nearby cemeteries. City officials had nowhere to bury those who had recently died. Building more cemeteries wasn’t an option – so what did officials decide to do? They dug up the bones from the overcrowded cemeteries and placed them underground. The bones that they moved were from the original inhabitants of Paris and dated back to the early middle ages.

Today you can take guided tours of the catacombs. To get inside the catacombs you enter through a narrows spiral staircase and then find yourself in a dark, dimly lit tunnel with carefully arranged bones in artistic patterns. It’s strangely beautiful – even so, Ted and I were really happy to come back above ground and see the sunlight after our tour.

Versailles

One of my favorite movies is Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. – its just sooooo pretty. Ever since I’ve seen it I wanted to visit Versailles. On the day of our visit is was cold and rainy. But nothing could dim my excitement and for an afternoon I dragged Ted around the palace grounds. Versailles is a short train ride from the city of Paris. When you arrive the first thing you see are large gilded gates. It’s grand, its excessive, its fabulous. Everything is about luxury – even everyday objects are embellished with hand carved, gilded flowers.

In the 17^th century, King Louis XIV, turned what was once an old hunting lodge into the palace of Versailles. Like Paris, Versailles was designed with intent and no expense was spared when it came to building the palace. Through sheer force of will King Louis XIV spent billions (in today’s dollars) on building Versailles. From its start, the palace was meant to showcase France’s achievements in fashion, design, business, and empire.

The most famous room is the Hall of Mirrors, which did not disappoint. If you’re interested in learning more check out the Versailles on Netflix. It’s probably not entirely historically accurate but it’s a guilty pleasure that dramatizes the politics and intrigue that Louis went through to create his vision.

If you’ve been to this beautiful city, what were your thoughts about Paris?